Tuesday, April 21, 2015

Finished! - Denim jacket - KnipMode aug.2014 - #23

 
 

 

 
 
Finally, result. This took more time to finish than I thought it would. But it's done, and I am happy with it. It looks nice and all the tweaking, testing and trying has paid off and resulted in a better fit. There is still room for improvement. The sloping-shoulder adjustment I made, turned out to be too drastic and the sleeves are too tight on the biceps for real comfort. I can wear it but it's not ideal in that area. Well, at least now I know that these are issues I have to deal with next time.
 
There are good points as well. Lowering the armscyes has helped to remove a lot of wrinkles in the back. So did the high-rounded back adjustment. The two darts in the back, starting at the shoulderseam, are hardly noticeable. Of course I didn't topstitch these darts, like I did with the rest of the seams.
 
Talking about topstitching....I used a darkblue, normal thread on the inside and a slightly thicker topstitch-thread on the outside. This caused some looping on the inside, especially at the beginning and end of seams. I even unpicked some parts to redo them because it was so ugly. It's still not perfect but I can live with it now.
 
The neckline is quite close to the body, but I'll never wear this jacket buttoned all the way up so that won't be a problem.
 
So there you have it. A new jacket. I have some fabric lurking in the corner, ready to be turned into nice spring/summer things. Most of them are jerseys. Now that I finally, after a wait of 10 weeks (omg!!), received the new little screwdriver that I need to change needles on my overlockmachine - (I lost the old one) - I am ready to tackle jerseys again. Better yet: I just can't wait to dive into that pile of fabric!
 
I'll soon inform you about new plans.
 
Lilian
 
 


Wednesday, April 1, 2015

Jeansjacket - work in progress

The jacket is coming along nicely. It's always nice to work with denim and this time it's not different.
The fit is also something I'm thrilled about this time. As far as I can tell at this stage, the back is fitting quite nicely and so is the front. You have to believe me on this 'cause for now I only have pictures of the jacket on the Blue Lady (Who, by the way, is starting to fall apart really badly: losing skin, getting more wrinkled etc. etc...poor thing!).
I basted a lot of the seams to get it to the stage where I could try it on. Now it's time to take them apart, sew real seams and....get the topstitching done. My favourite part :-)

 


This afternoon I fiddled with the small parts, a.k.a. the pockets and the pocket-flaps. The instruction tells you to sew the pockets on the inside but I chose to place them on the outside. They're gonna be real functioning pockets. Not that I will be putting anything in them, but it's just nice to make them real. You see them here, basted and ready to be used, lying on the lining. And as you can see I also used the ling for the back. The second picture shows the top of the pocket. I folded the seams at the top of both pocket and lining befóre I sewed them together. That makes it so much easier to close it afterwards.

 


And finally....can you tell I'm a bit of a control freak? Working out a plan of steps in the right order, even planning the different steps day to day (and making notes as I go along).
It's just that I only have 1 sewing-machine and I don't want to be changing sewingthread and topstitching thread all the time. So I try to combine as much tasks using the same thread as possible. And that dear readers requires some planning...


If I follow this plan I should be finishing it all tomorrow. That is never ever gonna happen because I forgot one important detail on the list.....The lining. Not one I'm looking forward to but I'm gonna pull through anyway.

I hope to show you pictures of the end-result soon. Now it's back to the sewing-machine! 

See you next time.
Lilian

Friday, March 27, 2015

New project on the table

While the sun is streaming through my window, there's a new project on my table. It feels like I'm on a sewing-roll at the moment. One thing finished, starting a next thing right away. Go me!

So let me introduce to you: KnipMode - Aug. 2014 - nr.23 - Jacket! 
 





The lining, it has clear lines in reality....
 
 
 
 








I'll be sewing a size 46 but there are a few adjustments I made to the pattern, some of them standard, some of them are the ones I discovered quite recently.

High-roundback-adjustment
(Sorry for the unclear picture, the pattern is lying upside down).
Because I think a jacket will be more loose-fitting than a blouse, I decided not to use the 2 cm I did in my previous blouse, but just 1 cm. The dart (from the shoulderline pointing to the shoulderblade) is a bit long for my taste, but is necessary.
Sloping-shoulder-adjustment.
I took off 1,75 cm of the height at the shoulderpoint, tapering to the neckline. I lowered the original armscye by the same amount.


Waistline and length.
These are my usual adjustments: lengthening the pattern above the waist 3 to 4 cm, and thereby lowering the waist, and adding another 5 cm to the length at the bottom.















And now fingers crossed, that all these changes will help to make a nice jacket. I'll keep you updated of the process.

See you next time.
Lilian

Wednesday, March 25, 2015

Black blouse finally finished

 

 


There you have it. The black blouse, which has been on my sewing table for way too long. I'm quite happy with the outcome. I managed to tackle some fitting-problems -  not all though - and will be handling future projects in the same way.
It's not a blouse to get very excited about, but it's a nice addition to my summer-wardrobe. One can never have too many choice of clothing right?
 
Yesterday I suddenly remembered that more than a year ago I bought a piece of white fabric (we call it nurse-linen, translated from Dutch to English) to make this same blouse. White fabric can be so terrible see-through, but this fabric doesn't have that problem. I played with the idea to make that my next project but I think I'll go ahead as planned with the jeans-jacket. If I manage to make that a - reasonable/wearable - success, I'll have a mini-wardrobe to show you, together with a simple white top and a skirt, the two pieces I didn't blog about.

This will be it for now. If I want to I can spend hours typing a blogpost but today there are other things that need to be done as well. One of them starting the jacket. In my next post Í will give more details.

Better get on with it.

See you next time.
Lilian

Saturday, March 14, 2015

Preparing for a jeans-jacket (and other stuff)

Hi everyone. It's been a while. What I've been up to? Not much really. Still looking for a job, so no change there. The temporary job I had since last august, ended at the end of january. I must say that job-seeking is by far the most annoying and frustrating thing I have ever had to do in my life. But on the other end it's an experience that makes me - somehow - grow as a person. Having never been unemployed since I left school in 1985 (I had 3 successive jobs), getting fired (due to economical reasons) has forced me to look at things in a different way and broaden my view. You see, I'm still trying to give it all a positive swirl. That's me...always positive. Well, almost always. One of the things I don't like is that I've become rather synical about a lot of things. But I guess that's just a logical consequence of all this. But don't worry, I know that I must work on that because synicals don't get jobs right?...

Enough of that. On to the sewing!

First I want to react on a comment on my last post from Digs (Straightjacketmuse). Digs, don't know if you are reading this post but I want to give you this - way overdue - reaction anyway.
First of all, thanks for your comment. The fabric I used for the top has a diagonal print. That's what I immediately liked about it. You get the effect without the effort. Nice!
The pattern is from the KnipMode special October 2013. There are only a few patterns in it.

Mini-swap
In december I wanted to start a mini-swap. And I did. The plan was to sew a skirt, a top and a jeans- jacket. The skirt and top are finished. (See? I díd sew!...Pictures will be shown when the jacket is finished). For the jacket I bought a second peace of jeans because I had high doubts about the first one I ordered from the internet. It seemed too thin.
I want so badly for this jeans jacket to be a succes that I knew I had to tackle the fitting-problems I have with my upperback first. Or else this would end as a wadder, like so many jackets did in the past.
Testing the alterations to fix the problems, I am working on a second version of the yellow blouse I made in July 2014. This time I altered the pattern with a high-rounded back adjustment and I must say there is definitely improvement in the fit of this blouse. It's not perfect yet. There is still a dragline under my arm, pointing to the shoulderblades as you can see in the (crappy styled) picture below. That's probably (??) due to the fact that I have sloping shoulders. I'll need to make another adjustment on the pattern for that. But hey, there is improvement. Hooray for that!

July2014

And then, after long deliberation, maybe I am finally ready to start this jacket.
But first there is the black blouse to be finished. Sleeves, collar, buttons, hemming.
Better get round to it.

Have a nice weekend everyone!
Lilian

p.s.
If anyone has advice on the draglines in the left picture (still there after a high-rounded back adjustment), that would be very, very much appreciated.

Friday, November 21, 2014

Colourful top - KnipMode Special Oct. 2013


This top is really cheering me up with its great, vibrant colours. Something we could all use in these, most of the time, gray and cold days. At some places the colours look faded, but that's the print.
The pattern is from a KnipMode special, which I can't find anywhere by the way. The original has a little strip of fabric that goes through a hole in the front, just beneath the drape and then you tie the ends together and by that gather the drape. Boy, does that even make sense to you? Anyway, I didn't use it. Nor did I use it in the same top I made about a year ago. And that's a colourful one as well.


With that top I made a belt (not shown in the picture, couldn't find that either :-(
I left out the belt this time and instead took in the sideseams, and now it's a more fitted top. (You got to trust me on that. I don't feel like taking a picture of me as I am down with a cold and not looking too well.)
What I like particularly is the fact that the drape in the neckline is modest but at the same time looking really great. It looks even better when I wear it.

I warned you in the previous post that it would be a simple top again. And it is.
Trust me to make it diffcult...
When I sewed the shoulderseams, after painstakingly ruching the seams and basting everything together, I realised that it was not right. Something in the back of my mind told me that the first top looked different in that area. So I checked it and yes, it was different. I should have read the instructions even though I made it before. But hey...when the sewingmojo strikes, I usually fly without wings. Well, lesson learned.
The shoulderseam of the back should be hidden between the shoulderseams of the front and facingpiece, instead of showing the raw edges. Here's what it looks like after I fixed my mistake.
















So the next job to do was unpicking the stitches and ruching and do it all over again, but now in the correct way.
It paid off. Now it's finished neatly and I love it. The instruction tells you to ruche also the shoulderseam of the facing, but I didn't bother with that. Just made two pleats and that works fine.
The facing is attached to the frontpiece at all sides, except at the bottom. It stays in place very well.

Nice.

Now I am in desperate need of a denim skirt to pair it with. Once I will feel a bit better I will pay a visit to the fabricshop. It's been too long. Too long...

Talk to you next time.
Lilian

Sunday, October 26, 2014

The facing that wanted to come out and play.

Yes. Another simple project... I almost feel the need to apologise for the fact that my sewing might seem a bit boring lately. But for me it isn't. No matter how simple it looks, there are always some problems to overcome and when I do, I am quite happy with the outcome. This top is a good example of that (first picture is a bit crappy though...)

 
 
As you can see, my top has no sleeves. Here's why.It all started with a piece of fabric I bought at a local fair for only € 3 ($ 3,80 / £ 2,30). Soon after that the idea came up to sew a trendy, oversized shirt with short sleeves. It took some time to find a matching pattern. (MUST NOT BUY FABRIC WITHOUT A PLAN - I REPEAT...MUST NOT etc.)
This pattern is from a magazine called 'Diana'. (More about that later). When that was solved too it was time to cut the fabric. It was then I discovered a big yellow stain, which eliminated 1/4 of the fabric I could use. Bummer.....
So what was I to do? Start looking for a new pattern (which would cost more time) or make do with what I had? I choose the last option and decided to eliminate the sleeves. I could still use this top to wear under jackets, cardigans etc.

With full steam ahead I started to sew. Then I saw that the shoulderseams were not matching. The back was way smaller than the front. (This probably has to do with the fact that I had to draw a new size between the patternlines of size 42/44 and 46/48). I had to recut and reshape the front neckline in the shoulder area. That meant the facing had to be reshaped  as well.
Once that was done I attached the facing to the, partly ruffled, neckline. Because of the ruffles, the facing was behaving in a bad way. It kept creeping up from behind the neckline and I didn't know what to do. Downstitching the facing meant stitching through the ruffles. That didn't appeal to me at all. I was about to throw the whole lot in the bin when I had a (ahum) briljant idea.Why not give the facing what it wanted - it's own little place in the sun?
And there you have it. The little stripe of fabric you see above the ruffles is the facing, crawling to the surface. It almost looks like a designfeature. As if it was meant this way. Yay!
The facing is stitched down all the way round. I used the 'stitch in the ditch'-technique in the front.

Pffff....problems overcome...very happy sewist!


Because I wasn't going to put in any sleeves, I had to redesign the armscyes as well, but that was a quick fix. I finished them in my favourite way. When hemming, I left the back a bit longer than the front. And from a certain size up, the pattern has bust darts. Nice!













This magazine - 'Diana' - is, I believe, a German magazine but sold in the Netherlands completely in Dutch. The pictures have a Burda-feel to it but the patterns are much nicer and wearable (in my opinion). For example:
Picture taken from sewing-magazine 'Diana'
Can you feel the Burda-vibe of a long, long time ago??

And now, probably with sweet Burda-memories filling your head, it's time for me to go. Next up will be another jersey knit top in quite thrilling colours. And yes, I'm afraid it's simple again ;-)
Better get started.

See you next time.
Lilian