Thursday, July 30, 2015

Royal Blue Cardigan - KnipMode July 2014

Wow....it's raining cats and dogs here! What better time to sit down and write a post.
This cardigan was still to be reviewed and shown to you, so here goes. The fabric is a super-lovely interlock jersey in royal blue. And I wouldn't be surprised if it contained some lycra. (I bought this at a fabricmarket and I didn't ask about it....  But anyway, I want more of that stuff!!


I'm looking somewhat goofy in this picture. The real reason behind this is that I tried to pull down the cardigan to eliminate the draglines, which are caused by the absence of a fullbust-adjustment. That's right. I thought, since this is a jersey, I could do without one. I thought wrong. I will also show you the picture which shows all the flaws. And I didn't even take a picture of the back. Believe me: móre gooey badness!
Oh...and don't be fooled by that smile. I was feeling pretty frustrated at that time because every picture looked nasty, so what you see is a very artifical 'happy me'  haha...

See how the hem is pulling up? I put this picture on Facebook and got very nice comments. But I wonder if people are just being nice, or am I really too critical about my own work?

I wonder if the day will come that I make something that fits just fine. There are always issues at almost every point you can think of. And I already tried a lot of adjustments, but I'm still not where I want to be.
Maybe I should contact someone who can 'translate' my body proportions to standard sewing-patterns.
Or maybe I should search for more information (internet or real books) about adjusting sewing-patterns.

There is already one thing I discovered recently that might lead me in the right direction. I tried on a jacket I made years ago. I don't know what size I was at the time but certainly smaller. Much to my surprise it fitted perfectly in the back. And yes, I still could move my arms. No pulling, no draglines! That made me think: when drawing a pattern, maybe I should size down at the top of the back! Now I always stick to a size 46, but maybe I am only a 44 there. Interesting food for thought don't you think? I am gonna investigate this some more. Because it might just help to get rid of (some of the) draglines in the back. I am sooo done with them.

Sorry for this rant but sometimes you just have to.
And thanks for listening :-)

Lilian

Wednesday, July 15, 2015

Ottobre shirt, second time around

Sometimes you're lucky. Sometimes you make something and everything goes smoothly. This t-shirt is an example of that. Even my serger was nice to me and had no hickups whatsoever. No unpicking of seams, no stupid mistakes in cutting the fabric, no......just no problems at all.
And to top it all off, it fits perfectly and wears heavenly...


Apart from that, there's not a lot to say about this shirt. It's the second one I made from an Ottobre pattern. The first one you can read about here and here.
The fabric is a jersey knit with lycra. Pretty thin, but heavy enough to hold its shape. And a joy to work with.
And I just lóve the colours and the tie-dye print. The green and blue are vibrant but toned down by the white and grey. It's perfect for this time of year (altough today it has been raining here for hours on end).
The shirt itself is simple. The only design feature is the ruffled seam on top of the sleeve.




















There was not enough fabric to cut the sleeves horizontally, so I cut them upside down. The fabric is a two-way stretch so that gave no issues.
The instructions in Ottobre tell you (if I'm correct, too lazy to look it up...) to fold the neckline to the wrong side and sew it. Oh no no... Not gonna happen. Once you learn how to finish the neckline of a knit top this way, you'll never go back.



The next thing I wanna show you is already finished. I'll be posting in a few days or so.
But for now, this is it. Talk to you soon!

Lilian

Wednesday, May 20, 2015

Summer top finished

Yay, I'm done. My first piece of summersewing is finished. It's a top from KnipMode March 2014. There is a design for a top with sleeves, and a dress without sleeves. I chose to make the top without sleeves.
At first it seemed like it was going to be an easy one but there are some details I'm not particularly happy about. First things first: a picture.



Looks alright, doesn't it? Well, what's wrong with it then?

The biggest problem is the neckline. It's way too wide. Before I cut the fabric I raised the front-neckline to avoid some unwanted cleavage, but it's like the fabric has stretched while I was working on it. And that can't have happened because I interfaced the facing, which is cut exactly according to the new, smaller designed neckline. So it can't have stretched. I'm really puzzled about this. There are almost no shoulders left on this top. (It's much worse than it looks in the picture). Combine that with a body that has almost no shoulders (yep, that's me...) and you'll understand that I constantly have to pull the shoulders back on my body. Ánd pull the whole thing up to avoid the above mentioned cleavage. No sadder thing than a piece of clothing that you have to readjust the whole time.

The next thing is the shoulderpiece (nr. 3 in the pattern-layout).
At the neckline it's curved (obviously), but it was very hard to make sure that the neckline continued fluently all the way around. And in the end...it didn't. So the lines where the shoulderpiece meets front and back, are a bit wonky. And that's just not what you want. Because those are the things that (almost) scream: d-i-y!!
The shoulderpieces each exist of two similar pieces. One of which is used as a facing. The front of the top is sewn between these two pieces. That makes it even harder to get a fluid line.
It may not be thát obvious to others but I know it's there and that's enough. I'm sure you know what I'm talking about...

(I cut the frontpiece (1) on the fold and not as 2 separate ones as they tell you to. No idea why they designed it like that. I did however not have enough fabric to cut nr. 10 on the fold so that has a centerseam. But I placed that in the back. No-one will notice, expecially with a busy print like this.)

Now, onto the wonky bits...




Front
Back

 
At the end of each project I always ask myself: will I make this again? Well...I have high doubts about this one. There are so many nice patterns to find, why go back to something that didn't make you happy? Better move forward and start with something new and exciting. As a matter of fact I already have chosen my next project. A summer-cardigan made of a nice jersey in royal blue. I love-love that fabric. So I mustn't mess that one up. That would be a real shame.

You won't Lilian, you won't.....   ;-)

Anyways, talk to you soon.
Lilian

Sunday, May 17, 2015

Three great pieces

When I started thinking about a new blogpost, showing the new project I'm working on, I suddenly remembered that a while ago I promised you a picture of the three pieces I sewed as a mini-swap. They all turned out really nice if I say so myself.
The jean-jacket you've seen already of course. But not the tanktop and the skirt. I think the three of them make a nice combination.



The fabric of the skirt is a bit thicker, it has a knit-texture but it's not heavy. Just perfect for fall or early spring. The hem falls well below my knee. That's why I like to wear it with boots. Shoes are not doing the silhouet any favour. It has a zipper in the back and also a vent. And it's fully lined.

For the white top I used a tnt-pattern I drafted myself, using a store-bought top that fits me really well. As a matter of fact, I already made 4 tops with that pattern and many more will follow.



Well, now this is out of the way, I soon hope tell you more about the jersey top I just started on. It's not a difficult design and I already cut out all the pieces. The coming week will be a bit busier than normal but I'll try to sneak in some sewingtime here and there.

So....talk to you soon!
Lilian

Tuesday, April 21, 2015

Finished! - Denim jacket - KnipMode aug.2014 - #23

 
 

 

 
 
Finally, result. This took more time to finish than I thought it would. But it's done, and I am happy with it. It looks nice and all the tweaking, testing and trying has paid off and resulted in a better fit. There is still room for improvement. The sloping-shoulder adjustment I made, turned out to be too drastic and the sleeves are too tight on the biceps for real comfort. I can wear it but it's not ideal in that area. Well, at least now I know that these are issues I have to deal with next time.
 
There are good points as well. Lowering the armscyes has helped to remove a lot of wrinkles in the back. So did the high-rounded back adjustment. The two darts in the back, starting at the shoulderseam, are hardly noticeable. Of course I didn't topstitch these darts, like I did with the rest of the seams.
 
Talking about topstitching....I used a darkblue, normal thread on the inside and a slightly thicker topstitch-thread on the outside. This caused some looping on the inside, especially at the beginning and end of seams. I even unpicked some parts to redo them because it was so ugly. It's still not perfect but I can live with it now.
 
The neckline is quite close to the body, but I'll never wear this jacket buttoned all the way up so that won't be a problem.
 
So there you have it. A new jacket. I have some fabric lurking in the corner, ready to be turned into nice spring/summer things. Most of them are jerseys. Now that I finally, after a wait of 10 weeks (omg!!), received the new little screwdriver that I need to change needles on my overlockmachine - (I lost the old one) - I am ready to tackle jerseys again. Better yet: I just can't wait to dive into that pile of fabric!
 
I'll soon inform you about new plans.
 
Lilian
 
 


Wednesday, April 1, 2015

Jeansjacket - work in progress

The jacket is coming along nicely. It's always nice to work with denim and this time it's not different.
The fit is also something I'm thrilled about this time. As far as I can tell at this stage, the back is fitting quite nicely and so is the front. You have to believe me on this 'cause for now I only have pictures of the jacket on the Blue Lady (Who, by the way, is starting to fall apart really badly: losing skin, getting more wrinkled etc. etc...poor thing!).
I basted a lot of the seams to get it to the stage where I could try it on. Now it's time to take them apart, sew real seams and....get the topstitching done. My favourite part :-)

 


This afternoon I fiddled with the small parts, a.k.a. the pockets and the pocket-flaps. The instruction tells you to sew the pockets on the inside but I chose to place them on the outside. They're gonna be real functioning pockets. Not that I will be putting anything in them, but it's just nice to make them real. You see them here, basted and ready to be used, lying on the lining. And as you can see I also used the ling for the back. The second picture shows the top of the pocket. I folded the seams at the top of both pocket and lining befóre I sewed them together. That makes it so much easier to close it afterwards.

 


And finally....can you tell I'm a bit of a control freak? Working out a plan of steps in the right order, even planning the different steps day to day (and making notes as I go along).
It's just that I only have 1 sewing-machine and I don't want to be changing sewingthread and topstitching thread all the time. So I try to combine as much tasks using the same thread as possible. And that dear readers requires some planning...


If I follow this plan I should be finishing it all tomorrow. That is never ever gonna happen because I forgot one important detail on the list.....The lining. Not one I'm looking forward to but I'm gonna pull through anyway.

I hope to show you pictures of the end-result soon. Now it's back to the sewing-machine! 

See you next time.
Lilian

Friday, March 27, 2015

New project on the table

While the sun is streaming through my window, there's a new project on my table. It feels like I'm on a sewing-roll at the moment. One thing finished, starting a next thing right away. Go me!

So let me introduce to you: KnipMode - Aug. 2014 - nr.23 - Jacket! 
 





The lining, it has clear lines in reality....
 
 
 
 








I'll be sewing a size 46 but there are a few adjustments I made to the pattern, some of them standard, some of them are the ones I discovered quite recently.

High-roundback-adjustment
(Sorry for the unclear picture, the pattern is lying upside down).
Because I think a jacket will be more loose-fitting than a blouse, I decided not to use the 2 cm I did in my previous blouse, but just 1 cm. The dart (from the shoulderline pointing to the shoulderblade) is a bit long for my taste, but is necessary.
Sloping-shoulder-adjustment.
I took off 1,75 cm of the height at the shoulderpoint, tapering to the neckline. I lowered the original armscye by the same amount.


Waistline and length.
These are my usual adjustments: lengthening the pattern above the waist 3 to 4 cm, and thereby lowering the waist, and adding another 5 cm to the length at the bottom.















And now fingers crossed, that all these changes will help to make a nice jacket. I'll keep you updated of the process.

See you next time.
Lilian