Monday, August 31, 2015

Jersey Top (x2) - Not so identical twins



This is a pattern from KnipMode July 2012. One of the patterns that, through the years, I immediately fell in love with. Again it's an example of simple with a 'twist'. The ruffles are the real center of attention here. The assymetrical neckline also does its best to attract attention. I like the 3/4-length sleeves. It makes it perfect to wear after summer. Great transitional wear so to speak. I am rather proud of how evenly the ruffles are divided. I took my time to get it right and it really payed off.


There is one flaw in this pattern. Once the top is sewn, the shoulderlines are no longer aligned. (See the yellow lines in the picture below.) Probably because of all the pulling that is going on. I assume you can change this by extending the diagonal neckline at the shoulderpoint, but I am not gonna try this. I already have to take off 3 cm of that same neckline at the other side, to prevent it from hanging too loose. I don't think adding length at the shoulder side will do it any good. And anyway, if I hadn't told you, you never would have guessed, right?



Now, why am I talking about (not so identically) twins in the title of this post?
See this? Looks familiar? That's right. It's a top I made a few years ago with the same pattern. Only did I somehow manage to make it in reverse this time.
The blue fabric has more stretch than this grey fabric, so it's less tight at the bust-area.
I won't ditch the 'old' one, but I like the new version better.


It's a great piece to make and to wear. But I have to make sure my bra-strap is not showing. To avoid having to check all day, I secure it with a safetypin on the inside.

I had plans to pick a new sewing project but I didn't. And to be honest I don't have the desire to do so anymore. We'll see what tomorrow brings. A lot of other tasks were done today, so I'm pretty tired now and apart from cooking/eating/dishes there won't be much action in da house for what's left of the day.

Talk to you soon
Lilian

p.s.  I received a question from Anonymous about subscribing to KnipMode when you live abroad.
Anonymous, if you read this: this link might come in handy. At the bottom of the page you'll find an email-address and a phonenumber you can use to ask any questions about subscribing to KnipMode. But....as far as I know, there is no English version. So, maybe that's something to take into consideration.

Saturday, August 22, 2015

My (re)view on KnipMode September 2015 - The Make-over

Months ago it was announced: Knipmode was going to get a make-over. Main change was gonna be an adjustment in the range of sizes. Each pattern was going to be offered in sizes 34 to 54. And as it goes with everything that is announced far in advance, suddenly the day has come that you find the new magazine in your mailbox.
In this post I would like to give my opinion on the changes that have been made. Feel free to disagree.



From: KnipMode Magazine - September 2015


The first thing you notice is the size of the magazine. I didn’t measure it but I think that it’s about an 1/2 inch larger in width and 1 inch in height.
Does that matter? I think it does. Apart from more room for larger pictures, they used a larger font size for the descriptions, which is easy on the eyes.


Next thing
 is the cover. The previous covers were made of shiny paper. Now it’s matte, firmer and more solid. Nice! Altough I cherish my old issues of KM and Burda, more than one cover has come loose or is torn apart. Maybe the risk of that happening is now smaller.


The number of patterns has gone down. This is actually quite logical if you consider that the larger and smaller sizes are now combined.


And then…..the size-range. When I got a prescription back in 1993, the sizes were all over the place. Patterns for only small-sizes, only big, or combined. For example: S36-38 / S40-44-48 / S38-42-46 / S48-50-52, and so on. Therefore, for your specific size there was a limited amount of patterns to choose from, although it has to be said that the smaller sizes were more represented than the larger ones.
About 6 years ago they divided the ranges in S34-46 / S44-56. (This was a great time for me, being a 44-46. I could get my pick at both sides!).
And now, every pattern is available in S34-54. And that’s a great thing. A lot of people agree, according to the messages left on KM’s facebook-page. But there is a strong demand for more pictures with plus-sized models, and I think that’s a fair request if you want to project that you now provide patterns for (almost) every size.


Still there is one thought that I can’t get out of my head: I believe that not every style is suitable for every size. How is this gonna affect the style choices KM will make? Will there be compromising in design as in ‘one design should fit all’, or are they just gonna put S34-54 under every design, regardless of whether it’s a style that suits the bodytypes that come with the different sizes? Don’t get me wrong. I am a very liberal person and I believe that everyone should wear what he or she is feeling comfortable and/or great in. But in my opinion, I truly believe that certain styles are better left alone cause they are absolutely not flattering for your bodytype. (I am a 46 so I am dealing with this myself.)

But hey, as long as there are enough patterns to choose from, let’s not dwell on this. And we’ll see how KM treats this ‘issue’ as time goes on.


New categories. I really had to compare it with an older issue to see what the differences are. It's not very clear to me. I don’t even know which of the categories will be published every month. They’re mostly about  trends and themes in fashion, and ‘pimping’  your clothes. Oh, and don’t forget making your own accessories. Great for those who are in to these things, but for me it’s a waste of space. In fact, I’m keeping my fingers crossed that they won’t add a cooking-item like they used to in the old days. Just saying haha…

From: KnipMode Magazine - September 2015
But one item is really cool. The sewing of one of the patterns is explained from A to Z, with pictures, on three pages. That always comes in handy, especially for those who are new to sewing. I remember I used to love these instructions when I started sewing. As a matter of fact, I still do.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
From: KnipMode September 2015
From: KnipMode September 2015
From: KnipMode-Magazine - September 2015
 
From: KnipMode-Magazine - September 2015

Conclusion
:
Overall I really, really like the new KnipMode. The vibe it has makes me happy and wanting for more. Especially the choice of fabrics is making my mouth water. The styling and pictures seem to be prettier. Is this all due to the make-over? Or has this also to do with the fact that it’s the september-issue. After a long summer, every september fashion-magazine is welcomed with open arms, showing us all the new, inspiring goodies that will lead us to and through a wonderful fall. I guess it’s a bit of both.

Anyway, I look forward to choosing my new projects from the new magazines and start fall-sewing.
Hope you enjoy it just as much!

Lilian

 

Sunday, August 16, 2015

New Fabric

It's been a while since I last showed you some newly purchased fabric. Recently I visited the weekly market near my town and I didn't had the intention of buying any new fabric. There is more than enough to work with at home. But you know how these things go, don't you? Once I have a piece of fabric in my hands, I just need to buy something. It's like an addiction. Let me rephrase that: it ís an addiction. Normally I don't like buying stuff without a plan. All the orphans in my stash are the ones of which I thought I could find a matching pattern. For most of them I'm still searching.
But when you are at a stall with remnants costing no more than € 2,50 a piece, it's hard to withstand the call of fabric. So I dived into the piles and found myself 4 nice pieces to take home with me.

Let me introduce you to:

nice blue cotton with tiny dots, probably for a late-summer or fall blouse



jersey with a very, very soft feel to it. The white is a bit off-white.



sheer multi-pastel-coloured fabric



jersey with a panel-like print, lots of grey (more than you see here) and a band of bright-coloured strokes at the side. I just lóve this!



That's it. I guess you can't call this a splurge. But these four pieces were just enough to get my needs satisfied. I went home a very happy girl!


Stay tuned for more. Yesterday I received the very first KnipMode with a new and fresh face, and some changes that are very interesting. I am thinking about doing a review.
There's also a finished project I want to show you.

So, talk to you soon!

Lilian

Thursday, July 30, 2015

Royal Blue Cardigan - KnipMode July 2014

Wow....it's raining cats and dogs here! What better time to sit down and write a post.
This cardigan was still to be reviewed and shown to you, so here goes. The fabric is a super-lovely interlock jersey in royal blue. And I wouldn't be surprised if it contained some lycra. (I bought this at a fabricmarket and I didn't ask about it....  But anyway, I want more of that stuff!!


I'm looking somewhat goofy in this picture. The real reason behind this is that I tried to pull down the cardigan to eliminate the draglines, which are caused by the absence of a fullbust-adjustment. That's right. I thought, since this is a jersey, I could do without one. I thought wrong. I will also show you the picture which shows all the flaws. And I didn't even take a picture of the back. Believe me: móre gooey badness!
Oh...and don't be fooled by that smile. I was feeling pretty frustrated at that time because every picture looked nasty, so what you see is a very artifical 'happy me'  haha...

See how the hem is pulling up? I put this picture on Facebook and got very nice comments. But I wonder if people are just being nice, or am I really too critical about my own work?

I wonder if the day will come that I make something that fits just fine. There are always issues at almost every point you can think of. And I already tried a lot of adjustments, but I'm still not where I want to be.
Maybe I should contact someone who can 'translate' my body proportions to standard sewing-patterns.
Or maybe I should search for more information (internet or real books) about adjusting sewing-patterns.

There is already one thing I discovered recently that might lead me in the right direction. I tried on a jacket I made years ago. I don't know what size I was at the time but certainly smaller. Much to my surprise it fitted perfectly in the back. And yes, I still could move my arms. No pulling, no draglines! That made me think: when drawing a pattern, maybe I should size down at the top of the back! Now I always stick to a size 46, but maybe I am only a 44 there. Interesting food for thought don't you think? I am gonna investigate this some more. Because it might just help to get rid of (some of the) draglines in the back. I am sooo done with them.

Sorry for this rant but sometimes you just have to.
And thanks for listening :-)

Lilian

Wednesday, July 15, 2015

Ottobre shirt, second time around

Sometimes you're lucky. Sometimes you make something and everything goes smoothly. This t-shirt is an example of that. Even my serger was nice to me and had no hickups whatsoever. No unpicking of seams, no stupid mistakes in cutting the fabric, no......just no problems at all.
And to top it all off, it fits perfectly and wears heavenly...


Apart from that, there's not a lot to say about this shirt. It's the second one I made from an Ottobre pattern. The first one you can read about here and here.
The fabric is a jersey knit with lycra. Pretty thin, but heavy enough to hold its shape. And a joy to work with.
And I just lóve the colours and the tie-dye print. The green and blue are vibrant but toned down by the white and grey. It's perfect for this time of year (altough today it has been raining here for hours on end).
The shirt itself is simple. The only design feature is the ruffled seam on top of the sleeve.




















There was not enough fabric to cut the sleeves horizontally, so I cut them upside down. The fabric is a two-way stretch so that gave no issues.
The instructions in Ottobre tell you (if I'm correct, too lazy to look it up...) to fold the neckline to the wrong side and sew it. Oh no no... Not gonna happen. Once you learn how to finish the neckline of a knit top this way, you'll never go back.



The next thing I wanna show you is already finished. I'll be posting in a few days or so.
But for now, this is it. Talk to you soon!

Lilian

Wednesday, May 20, 2015

Summer top finished

Yay, I'm done. My first piece of summersewing is finished. It's a top from KnipMode March 2014. There is a design for a top with sleeves, and a dress without sleeves. I chose to make the top without sleeves.
At first it seemed like it was going to be an easy one but there are some details I'm not particularly happy about. First things first: a picture.



Looks alright, doesn't it? Well, what's wrong with it then?

The biggest problem is the neckline. It's way too wide. Before I cut the fabric I raised the front-neckline to avoid some unwanted cleavage, but it's like the fabric has stretched while I was working on it. And that can't have happened because I interfaced the facing, which is cut exactly according to the new, smaller designed neckline. So it can't have stretched. I'm really puzzled about this. There are almost no shoulders left on this top. (It's much worse than it looks in the picture). Combine that with a body that has almost no shoulders (yep, that's me...) and you'll understand that I constantly have to pull the shoulders back on my body. Ánd pull the whole thing up to avoid the above mentioned cleavage. No sadder thing than a piece of clothing that you have to readjust the whole time.

The next thing is the shoulderpiece (nr. 3 in the pattern-layout).
At the neckline it's curved (obviously), but it was very hard to make sure that the neckline continued fluently all the way around. And in the end...it didn't. So the lines where the shoulderpiece meets front and back, are a bit wonky. And that's just not what you want. Because those are the things that (almost) scream: d-i-y!!
The shoulderpieces each exist of two similar pieces. One of which is used as a facing. The front of the top is sewn between these two pieces. That makes it even harder to get a fluid line.
It may not be thát obvious to others but I know it's there and that's enough. I'm sure you know what I'm talking about...

(I cut the frontpiece (1) on the fold and not as 2 separate ones as they tell you to. No idea why they designed it like that. I did however not have enough fabric to cut nr. 10 on the fold so that has a centerseam. But I placed that in the back. No-one will notice, expecially with a busy print like this.)

Now, onto the wonky bits...




Front
Back

 
At the end of each project I always ask myself: will I make this again? Well...I have high doubts about this one. There are so many nice patterns to find, why go back to something that didn't make you happy? Better move forward and start with something new and exciting. As a matter of fact I already have chosen my next project. A summer-cardigan made of a nice jersey in royal blue. I love-love that fabric. So I mustn't mess that one up. That would be a real shame.

You won't Lilian, you won't.....   ;-)

Anyways, talk to you soon.
Lilian

Sunday, May 17, 2015

Three great pieces

When I started thinking about a new blogpost, showing the new project I'm working on, I suddenly remembered that a while ago I promised you a picture of the three pieces I sewed as a mini-swap. They all turned out really nice if I say so myself.
The jean-jacket you've seen already of course. But not the tanktop and the skirt. I think the three of them make a nice combination.



The fabric of the skirt is a bit thicker, it has a knit-texture but it's not heavy. Just perfect for fall or early spring. The hem falls well below my knee. That's why I like to wear it with boots. Shoes are not doing the silhouet any favour. It has a zipper in the back and also a vent. And it's fully lined.

For the white top I used a tnt-pattern I drafted myself, using a store-bought top that fits me really well. As a matter of fact, I already made 4 tops with that pattern and many more will follow.



Well, now this is out of the way, I soon hope tell you more about the jersey top I just started on. It's not a difficult design and I already cut out all the pieces. The coming week will be a bit busier than normal but I'll try to sneak in some sewingtime here and there.

So....talk to you soon!
Lilian