Wednesday, May 20, 2015

Summer top finished

Yay, I'm done. My first piece of summersewing is finished. It's a top from KnipMode March 2014. There is a design for a top with sleeves, and a dress without sleeves. I chose to make the top without sleeves.
At first it seemed like it was going to be an easy one but there are some details I'm not particularly happy about. First things first: a picture.



Looks alright, doesn't it? Well, what's wrong with it then?

The biggest problem is the neckline. It's way too wide. Before I cut the fabric I raised the front-neckline to avoid some unwanted cleavage, but it's like the fabric has stretched while I was working on it. And that can't have happened because I interfaced the facing, which is cut exactly according to the new, smaller designed neckline. So it can't have stretched. I'm really puzzled about this. There are almost no shoulders left on this top. (It's much worse than it looks in the picture). Combine that with a body that has almost no shoulders (yep, that's me...) and you'll understand that I constantly have to pull the shoulders back on my body. Ánd pull the whole thing up to avoid the above mentioned cleavage. No sadder thing than a piece of clothing that you have to readjust the whole time.

The next thing is the shoulderpiece (nr. 3 in the pattern-layout).
At the neckline it's curved (obviously), but it was very hard to make sure that the neckline continued fluently all the way around. And in the end...it didn't. So the lines where the shoulderpiece meets front and back, are a bit wonky. And that's just not what you want. Because those are the things that (almost) scream: d-i-y!!
The shoulderpieces each exist of two similar pieces. One of which is used as a facing. The front of the top is sewn between these two pieces. That makes it even harder to get a fluid line.
It may not be thát obvious to others but I know it's there and that's enough. I'm sure you know what I'm talking about...

(I cut the frontpiece (1) on the fold and not as 2 separate ones as they tell you to. No idea why they designed it like that. I did however not have enough fabric to cut nr. 10 on the fold so that has a centerseam. But I placed that in the back. No-one will notice, expecially with a busy print like this.)

Now, onto the wonky bits...




Front
Back

 
At the end of each project I always ask myself: will I make this again? Well...I have high doubts about this one. There are so many nice patterns to find, why go back to something that didn't make you happy? Better move forward and start with something new and exciting. As a matter of fact I already have chosen my next project. A summer-cardigan made of a nice jersey in royal blue. I love-love that fabric. So I mustn't mess that one up. That would be a real shame.

You won't Lilian, you won't.....   ;-)

Anyways, talk to you soon.
Lilian

Sunday, May 17, 2015

Three great pieces

When I started thinking about a new blogpost, showing the new project I'm working on, I suddenly remembered that a while ago I promised you a picture of the three pieces I sewed as a mini-swap. They all turned out really nice if I say so myself.
The jean-jacket you've seen already of course. But not the tanktop and the skirt. I think the three of them make a nice combination.



The fabric of the skirt is a bit thicker, it has a knit-texture but it's not heavy. Just perfect for fall or early spring. The hem falls well below my knee. That's why I like to wear it with boots. Shoes are not doing the silhouet any favour. It has a zipper in the back and also a vent. And it's fully lined.

For the white top I used a tnt-pattern I drafted myself, using a store-bought top that fits me really well. As a matter of fact, I already made 4 tops with that pattern and many more will follow.



Well, now this is out of the way, I soon hope tell you more about the jersey top I just started on. It's not a difficult design and I already cut out all the pieces. The coming week will be a bit busier than normal but I'll try to sneak in some sewingtime here and there.

So....talk to you soon!
Lilian

Tuesday, April 21, 2015

Finished! - Denim jacket - KnipMode aug.2014 - #23

 
 

 

 
 
Finally, result. This took more time to finish than I thought it would. But it's done, and I am happy with it. It looks nice and all the tweaking, testing and trying has paid off and resulted in a better fit. There is still room for improvement. The sloping-shoulder adjustment I made, turned out to be too drastic and the sleeves are too tight on the biceps for real comfort. I can wear it but it's not ideal in that area. Well, at least now I know that these are issues I have to deal with next time.
 
There are good points as well. Lowering the armscyes has helped to remove a lot of wrinkles in the back. So did the high-rounded back adjustment. The two darts in the back, starting at the shoulderseam, are hardly noticeable. Of course I didn't topstitch these darts, like I did with the rest of the seams.
 
Talking about topstitching....I used a darkblue, normal thread on the inside and a slightly thicker topstitch-thread on the outside. This caused some looping on the inside, especially at the beginning and end of seams. I even unpicked some parts to redo them because it was so ugly. It's still not perfect but I can live with it now.
 
The neckline is quite close to the body, but I'll never wear this jacket buttoned all the way up so that won't be a problem.
 
So there you have it. A new jacket. I have some fabric lurking in the corner, ready to be turned into nice spring/summer things. Most of them are jerseys. Now that I finally, after a wait of 10 weeks (omg!!), received the new little screwdriver that I need to change needles on my overlockmachine - (I lost the old one) - I am ready to tackle jerseys again. Better yet: I just can't wait to dive into that pile of fabric!
 
I'll soon inform you about new plans.
 
Lilian
 
 


Wednesday, April 1, 2015

Jeansjacket - work in progress

The jacket is coming along nicely. It's always nice to work with denim and this time it's not different.
The fit is also something I'm thrilled about this time. As far as I can tell at this stage, the back is fitting quite nicely and so is the front. You have to believe me on this 'cause for now I only have pictures of the jacket on the Blue Lady (Who, by the way, is starting to fall apart really badly: losing skin, getting more wrinkled etc. etc...poor thing!).
I basted a lot of the seams to get it to the stage where I could try it on. Now it's time to take them apart, sew real seams and....get the topstitching done. My favourite part :-)

 


This afternoon I fiddled with the small parts, a.k.a. the pockets and the pocket-flaps. The instruction tells you to sew the pockets on the inside but I chose to place them on the outside. They're gonna be real functioning pockets. Not that I will be putting anything in them, but it's just nice to make them real. You see them here, basted and ready to be used, lying on the lining. And as you can see I also used the ling for the back. The second picture shows the top of the pocket. I folded the seams at the top of both pocket and lining befóre I sewed them together. That makes it so much easier to close it afterwards.

 


And finally....can you tell I'm a bit of a control freak? Working out a plan of steps in the right order, even planning the different steps day to day (and making notes as I go along).
It's just that I only have 1 sewing-machine and I don't want to be changing sewingthread and topstitching thread all the time. So I try to combine as much tasks using the same thread as possible. And that dear readers requires some planning...


If I follow this plan I should be finishing it all tomorrow. That is never ever gonna happen because I forgot one important detail on the list.....The lining. Not one I'm looking forward to but I'm gonna pull through anyway.

I hope to show you pictures of the end-result soon. Now it's back to the sewing-machine! 

See you next time.
Lilian

Friday, March 27, 2015

New project on the table

While the sun is streaming through my window, there's a new project on my table. It feels like I'm on a sewing-roll at the moment. One thing finished, starting a next thing right away. Go me!

So let me introduce to you: KnipMode - Aug. 2014 - nr.23 - Jacket! 
 





The lining, it has clear lines in reality....
 
 
 
 








I'll be sewing a size 46 but there are a few adjustments I made to the pattern, some of them standard, some of them are the ones I discovered quite recently.

High-roundback-adjustment
(Sorry for the unclear picture, the pattern is lying upside down).
Because I think a jacket will be more loose-fitting than a blouse, I decided not to use the 2 cm I did in my previous blouse, but just 1 cm. The dart (from the shoulderline pointing to the shoulderblade) is a bit long for my taste, but is necessary.
Sloping-shoulder-adjustment.
I took off 1,75 cm of the height at the shoulderpoint, tapering to the neckline. I lowered the original armscye by the same amount.


Waistline and length.
These are my usual adjustments: lengthening the pattern above the waist 3 to 4 cm, and thereby lowering the waist, and adding another 5 cm to the length at the bottom.















And now fingers crossed, that all these changes will help to make a nice jacket. I'll keep you updated of the process.

See you next time.
Lilian

Wednesday, March 25, 2015

Black blouse finally finished

 

 


There you have it. The black blouse, which has been on my sewing table for way too long. I'm quite happy with the outcome. I managed to tackle some fitting-problems -  not all though - and will be handling future projects in the same way.
It's not a blouse to get very excited about, but it's a nice addition to my summer-wardrobe. One can never have too many choice of clothing right?
 
Yesterday I suddenly remembered that more than a year ago I bought a piece of white fabric (we call it nurse-linen, translated from Dutch to English) to make this same blouse. White fabric can be so terrible see-through, but this fabric doesn't have that problem. I played with the idea to make that my next project but I think I'll go ahead as planned with the jeans-jacket. If I manage to make that a - reasonable/wearable - success, I'll have a mini-wardrobe to show you, together with a simple white top and a skirt, the two pieces I didn't blog about.

This will be it for now. If I want to I can spend hours typing a blogpost but today there are other things that need to be done as well. One of them starting the jacket. In my next post Í will give more details.

Better get on with it.

See you next time.
Lilian

Saturday, March 14, 2015

Preparing for a jeans-jacket (and other stuff)

Hi everyone. It's been a while. What I've been up to? Not much really. Still looking for a job, so no change there. The temporary job I had since last august, ended at the end of january. I must say that job-seeking is by far the most annoying and frustrating thing I have ever had to do in my life. But on the other end it's an experience that makes me - somehow - grow as a person. Having never been unemployed since I left school in 1985 (I had 3 successive jobs), getting fired (due to economical reasons) has forced me to look at things in a different way and broaden my view. You see, I'm still trying to give it all a positive swirl. That's me...always positive. Well, almost always. One of the things I don't like is that I've become rather synical about a lot of things. But I guess that's just a logical consequence of all this. But don't worry, I know that I must work on that because synicals don't get jobs right?...

Enough of that. On to the sewing!

First I want to react on a comment on my last post from Digs (Straightjacketmuse). Digs, don't know if you are reading this post but I want to give you this - way overdue - reaction anyway.
First of all, thanks for your comment. The fabric I used for the top has a diagonal print. That's what I immediately liked about it. You get the effect without the effort. Nice!
The pattern is from the KnipMode special October 2013. There are only a few patterns in it.

Mini-swap
In december I wanted to start a mini-swap. And I did. The plan was to sew a skirt, a top and a jeans- jacket. The skirt and top are finished. (See? I díd sew!...Pictures will be shown when the jacket is finished). For the jacket I bought a second peace of jeans because I had high doubts about the first one I ordered from the internet. It seemed too thin.
I want so badly for this jeans jacket to be a succes that I knew I had to tackle the fitting-problems I have with my upperback first. Or else this would end as a wadder, like so many jackets did in the past.
Testing the alterations to fix the problems, I am working on a second version of the yellow blouse I made in July 2014. This time I altered the pattern with a high-rounded back adjustment and I must say there is definitely improvement in the fit of this blouse. It's not perfect yet. There is still a dragline under my arm, pointing to the shoulderblades as you can see in the (crappy styled) picture below. That's probably (??) due to the fact that I have sloping shoulders. I'll need to make another adjustment on the pattern for that. But hey, there is improvement. Hooray for that!

July2014

And then, after long deliberation, maybe I am finally ready to start this jacket.
But first there is the black blouse to be finished. Sleeves, collar, buttons, hemming.
Better get round to it.

Have a nice weekend everyone!
Lilian

p.s.
If anyone has advice on the draglines in the left picture (still there after a high-rounded back adjustment), that would be very, very much appreciated.