My preferred way of finishing necklines and armscyes on a knit shirt

This week I'm enjoying my autumn break. A whole week to do some much needed sewing. The plan is to do some easy sewing. Nothing too complicated. Last friday I started on a cardigan for which I revisited the pattern I used here and  here. And my next make is already finished as well: a nightgown, made from a lovely cotton jersey which is a dream to work with! I already made one before with the same type of fabric (black with flowers) and it gets worn a lot. The fabric I used is bought with this nightgown in mind.

I thought it would be fun to show you how I finished the neckline and armscyes. It's a very easy method and I prefer it over the method where you fold the band and sew it on, double layered. It's a thin line between stretching the band too much and causing puckers or not stretching it enough so it won't lay flat. For me it's hard to get that right. But with this foldover method it's actually easy-peasy. 

Make sure when you cut your pattern you don't include seams at the neckline and armscyes. The edge of the fabric will be the edge of the finished band. To determine the length of the band you measure the edges and take 90% of that + 2 cm for the seams. The band is cut 3 cm wide. Close the band by stitching with a 1 cm seam allowance. 

Here are some pictures to show you the next steps:

Pinning the band on the edge. You need to stretch the band slightly. To make sure the band is evenly distributed, you divide both the edge of the band and the edge of the armscye/neckline in 4 equal parts. Mark those places and pin these together. Then it's easier to fasten the band between these marks.

Band sewn on with 0,75 cm seam allowance.

Serged the edge for a neat finish. (Of course you can do this before attaching the band. I totally forgot :-) 

And this is where the magic happens: Fold the band óver the edge to the inside. (Don't fold the seam-allowance). 

Folded band pinned in place. Almost done now.

Stitched the band by stitching 'in the ditch'. 

A close-up of the stitches 'in the ditch'.

Pressed! Always an important step to polish up the finished garment.

Done! A simple but satisfying make.

Now fall sewing is in full swing, I have some lovely new fabrics to show you but that will be for another post. So stay tuned!

Talk to you soon

Lilian