Friday, June 27, 2014

Yes, finally!


Whooheee!! It took a lot of tweaking but it was worth e-ve-ry minute!

As you can see I decided on plan b: a band to finish the neckline. First I tried plan a: deepening the pleats, and that seemed to work. But after I stitched the neckline to secure the pleats in place, it had become widen again. Whaat?!
So plan b it was.
I pinned the pleats in the patternpaper so that I could use that as a guideline to draft the patternpieces for the band, which is 3 cm wide. And that did the trick. This fits and looks so much better on me. Now it's not gonna drop of my shoulder or show any bra-straps. Nor do the pleats end in an awkward and rather abrupt way next to my skin. Yes, I am very pleased with the outcome.

I sewed the pleats in the back as darts. That eliminated just enough of the excess fabric to create a smooth line. There is no bulkiness above the waistband any more.

When I basted the hem, I saw that the back was higher than the front. Suppose having a swayback does that for you. I lengthened the centerback hem by 2,5 cm, tapering to nothing at 10 cm past the sideseams in the front. Now, when I wear it, the hem is even all around. Good decision.

I am so happy that I can't stop staring at it. Silly me... In earlier years I wouldn't have bothered to make all these changes. Many times that meant I ended up with something I wasn't gonna wear. Now I know I will be wearing this a lot! It definitely pays off to tweak a bit here and there.




 
After the fail of the green cardigan and the simplicity of the darkblue shirts, this was just what I needed to cheer me up sewing-wise. This makes me want to start with the next project immediately.
Time to figure out what that will be.

Have a nice weekend everyone!

Lilian

Thursday, June 19, 2014

KnipMode blouse - a lot of tweaking

After all that harsh blue I was in the mood for something a bit more cheery.
The fabric I'm using for my next project has been attracting my attention for a long time. It's a lovely vibrant lilac colour with embroidery. I had no idea what to do with it, until I found this pattern:

I love all the pleats, the round neckline, the short sleeves. I just love the whole silhouette of this blouse. Especially the way how the pleats are sewn down from the waist to the hem. This gives a nice fulness in the upper part of the blouse, but creates at the same time a more fitted lower part. Very much to my liking. There are however some issues. Things that need changing.







The (lower) pleats
Unfortunately, the pleats that work so well in the front, are misbehaving in the back just above the waistline.
What I will do is sew the pleats up from the waist and treat them like darts. This should take away some of the excess fabric.

The neckline
The neckline is also very wide, although the picture is not showing that very well. (The model wearing this in KnipMode is wearing a jacket over the blouse, covering almost 90% of it. Damn...is KnipMode doing a 'Burda-ish cover-up' or what??)  I could wear it like this, but I would be very conscious all the time wether it would drop off my shoulders, because there is a serious chance of that happening if I don't change it. The original instructions tell you to zigzag or serge the neckline, so no seams or binding are used to finish it. That would mean the neckline stays exactly as it is now. There are 2 things I could do to solve this:

1. Deepen the neckline-pleats.
2. Put a flat round band on it, which means drafting a new pattern-piece to place on top of the neckline.

I'm strongly leaning towards option 2, but I could try option 1 first to see if that would help.

The sleeves
I already widened the sleeves a bit by cutting the patternpiece and moving the pieces away from each other. Then I redrafted the new sleeve. I think I could have done without this alteration but it's ok as it is.

Stay tuned if you want to find out how this ends. I hope it ends gooood  ;-)

Lilian


Monday, June 9, 2014

Though the plan was to NOT make a sleeveless summertop, I realised there wasn't enough fabric left to make anything else. So I went on with it. I drafted the pattern myself about a year ago, using a store-bought shirt as an example, and this is the third time I'm using it. So I guess it qualifies as a TNT. Anyway, here's the picture:


Like the Swedish popgroup Abba sings in 'The winner takes it all':  "It's simple and it's plain, why should I complain?"
Yes it's simple but I can use this top a lot this summer. I was able to make two pieces out of this lovely fabric. So yeah, I'm content and not complaining.


(The Blue Lady, who has been in my life for more than 20 years and has served as a model numerous times, has begun to show some signs of aging. Like most ladies start to wrinkle when they get older, she is no exception. (Poor thing!)

After three fairly simple pieces, I think it's time to make something with a little bit more interesting details. But at this point I don't have a clue what that should be. I have some lovely summerfabrics in my stash so that shouldn't be a problem. But ideas? Nope. None.

I need some input to keep this blog rolling though. Last week I had a moment where I was thinking: "Why only blog about the new things you make, when there are a LOT of things from the (recent) past that you didn't blog about. Maybe that's what I'm gonna do. Dig out some ghosts from the past and show them to you. I think that could be fun. I hope you do so too ;-)

As for my unemployment: three weeks ago I had the chance to start in a temporary job on a primary school. Due to reasons I don't want to go into on this blog, this ended for now. Maybe there is a chance that I can return at the beginning of the new schoolyear. It depends on a few things that we'll have to wait to see how they develop. (sorry for being so vague about this....) But if the circumstances haven't changed by then, they want me back and I would absolutely love to go back!!
It will be temporary so I still need to look for a more permanent job, but I'm ever so proud that I managed to get some job at all! This proves to me that all hope's not lost!

Talk to you soon!

Lilian